DONE: Short striped & piped Hummingbird skirt (Cake Patterns #0289)

Until I made this skirt, I hadn't inserted an invisible zipper in EIGHT years. It's probably been just as long since I wore short skirts regularly, too—I got into a rut in 2005 when I decided all skirts MUST BE KNEE LENGTH.

But that is old news now because I LOVE my new Hummingbird Orange denim skirt AND I inserted the invisible zipper with no issues on the first try with help from a little video tutorial linked in the pattern.

But screw zippers. What I really love about this skirt is the fit. Which is, well, PERFECT.

And now that I have a perfect fitting woven skirt, it just emphasizes how ill-fitting most of my RTW woven skirts are—gaping at the back waist, droopy in the rear.

In fact, while wearing my Hummingbird peplum tops (and now the skirt) I've had a number of people spontaneously ask me "Did you lose weight?"

While the body image warrior in me wants to be cranky and ask why that should be a compliment, I do think it points to the perks of wearing well-fitting, flattering clothing. (And no, I haven't lost weight—in fact I've gained quite a bit thanks to oral steroids I had to take while I was ill. But thank you anyway.)

I also love:

• The smartphone-sized panel pockets, just right for my so-old-it-can't-run-any-apps first generation Apple iPod Touch. Of course I lined my Hummingbird Orange pockets in, well orange:
  
• My striped piped seams (try saying that five times fast)—they look like a dotted line! Yes I should have made them more even and no, I don't care. I cut 1 1/2" wide strips, pressed them in half, and basted them to one edge of the fabric (raw edges to raw edge) before stitching the seams:
  

Anyway, on to the juicy details:

The pattern: Cake Patterns Hummingbird Peplum Top and Straight Skirt 0289. (Disclosure: I draw illustrations and flats for Cake, but I don't get paid to sew, blog or otherwise promote Cake!)

Pattern Description: Hummingbird view "Orange" woven skirt with no gape panel pockets sized for smartphones, back zipper and simple straight waistband. Optional back flounce, aka Hummingbird "Pink". (There's also a knit top with sleeve and neckline variations and optional dickey and cuffs which I have made twice already.)

Pattern Sizing: Full hip sizes ranging from 35"-57", with waist size cut by actual size. I cut the size 40" with a 30" waist. (My full hips are 38.5" and my waist is 29").

There is a "fit check" step in the instructions where you baste the side seams to check and adjust fit, and I ended up taking in the waist by about 3/4" on each side (or 3" total), the hips about 1" (4" total) and the waistband about 3". This is mainly because I was working with a stretch woven—I think in a plain woven I would have taken out half that. After that, it fit PERFECTLY and I made no adjustments to the darts or anything else.

The skirt is designed for this side-seam adjustment, and can be taken in up to 1" on each piece (4" total) without distorting the pocket design. Here's a photo of me pinning the waist and hips in to fit—can you see the chalk and pins?

Fabric: All from the stash, aren't I a good girl?

• Dark pinstriped black stretch denim I've had since high school—less than a yard.
• Scraps of orange stretch cotton sateen for the pockets from a $1/yard FabricMart sale three years ago.
• Bits of gray and white cotton/lycra blend knit, $6/yard from Spandex House a long time ago (also used for panties and my Tiramisu test top).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added flat knit piping to the front and waist seams to create a dotted line effect. If the piping hadn't been so uncooperative and shifty I would have gone all out and done the pockets and side seams too, as in this lovely Milly skirt.

Wear for: Work (with flats or boots) or weekend (though maybe not going down a slide on the playground or riding a bike?) and definitely for a date with the husband.

Successes:

• My first invisible zipper in EIGHT years. Smooth and perfect!:
  
• First time attempting flat piping—it totally works, even though it's not perfectly even.
• Second waistband EVER. (I used a hook and eye closure).
• First time sewing with stretch wovens. I used a small zigzag stitch (1 mm wide, 2 mm long) for most seams to prevent popping.

References used (in addition to instructions of course):

• Marcy Tilton's The Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts. LOVE this very thorough book and the whole series.
• Claire Schaefer's High-Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers. For piping instructions.
• Sandra Betzina's More Fabric Savvy. For tips on sewing with stretch wovens.
• Steph's invisible zipper video tutorial and straight waistband photo tutorial.

I can't wait to make my next pencil-style Hummingbird "Pink" with fancy back tailfeather flounce during the sewalong (join us! orange envelopes are in my House!), in a nubbly turquoise linen blend from ancient stash.

So, do you wear short skirts? How short is too short for work (or equivalent social settings?)

P.P.S. Notice the new red flats, after my agonized blog post on my search for bright and comfortable shoes? Little Z calls them my "Dorothy shoes!"

Yarn & Fabric Shopping Overload + 2 Cardigans in Progress

Don't look at me like that, it was a birthday yarn shopping emergency!

Part 1: A Tale of Two Yarn Sprees

I've been TRYING to be a good little stash-buster. The first two tops I made last month were from the stash, as were my TARDIS socks AND the denim Hummingbird skirt I've almost completed.

And I deliberately chose the Delancey cardigan I'm knitting now to use up some lovely DK-weight merino I'd had lying around for over five years. Here's a progress shot (it is SO fun to knit, you start with two triangles and then join them to get the chevron effect going:)

But last weekend while riding the Bolt Bus to Boston with my husband and daughter, I reached into my purse for the Delancey AND IT WAS GONE (left at the office, thankfully, and not at the bus stop!). That meant two five hour bus rides WASTED and LACKING IN CARDIGANS.

Worst of all, it meant NO KNITTING on my BIRTHDAY, which was the following day. My husband came to the rescue, and gamely agreed to take me yarn shopping as a present.

Which is how, on my 33rd birthday, I ended up desperately pawing through the shelves of the...

Hub Mills yarn store (see photo at top) at the Classic Elite yarns distribution center in Billerica, Massachusetts.

When I was learning to knit in high school, Hub Mills (located in a scenic canal-side factory in downtown Lowell) was my Local Yarn Store, but although the new Billerica location isn't as nice, the yarns are still soft, colorful and yummy, there are lovely samples on display and the staff are super-helpful and knowledgeable. I came away with:

• Yarn, needles and pattern to make a Baby Surprise Jacket for my niece-or-nephew to be. This is Classic Elite Liberty Wool, a super-soft machine washable variegated worsted yarn with lots of colors in each ball, ideal for baby clothes:
  

  I've made a Baby Surprise Jacket before for my daughter, so knew it would be a quick fun bus-ride-worthy project.

• Kim Hargreaves' Hearfelt: The Dark House Collection book of 21 patterns.
  

  The book title is a bit over the top, but the patterns (see Ravelry for all of them) are just stunning (SO MANY PEPLUMS), so I'm not going to get too worked up.

My husband (man knows what I like) also got me a gift certificate to a local yarn store for Mother's Day. So today I went to:

La Casita Yarn Shop Café in Brooklyn.

This tiny little store and café/bar is just blocks from my home. It's jam-packed with all kinds of beautiful yarns from budget to super-fancy-expensive, some of them tucked into cookie jars and little baskets just to find space.

I especially love that they are so kid-friendly and even have kids' knitting classes and a kids' summer knitting camp. (I say this because I've had some unfortunate experiences with staff in another local yarn store that I won't name who were really rude to me and my daughter even though she hadn't touched a single skein).

Anyway, after some deliberation I bought:

• Enough yarn for my NEXT cardigan, Cherry by Anna Bell.

  I decided to make a candy pink Cherry, with a coral for the body and a slightly brighter fuschia for the ribbing and belt. The yarns shown are Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK, a mostly merino superwash wool blend with a hint of cashmere and silk, and Filatura di Crosa Zara, a soft merino superwash. (I'm going to knit it extra-small to combat the growth properties of superwash).

  

Part 2: Mood Print Madness

Oh, and the fabric. Yeah. So I already have quite a bit of knit fabric, but I have a lot of summer tops and dress plans, and I'm getting a little sick of just solids, stripes and polka dots. So last month I went on a printed knit binge at Mood and got:

• A lovely monochrome purple-and-white rose print rayon/lycra jersey:
  
• Pink and purple chevrons! (also rayon/lycra jersey):
  
  The print of pure color chaos... I'm thinking a sleeveless Jalie scarf-collar top (I know, AGAIN).

  

• Not to mention the Hummingbird-esque fabric I used for my second Hummingbird top:
  
• And for slight balance, some soft stretchy double-knit (or ponte?) RPL for a Bonny top:
  

Phew! Confession time over. I think I have a lot of stash-sewing in my future before I can justify setting foot in a yarn or fabric store any time soon...

Love Letter to a $4 Vintage Peplum Dress

Dear $4 vintage dress,

We've been through a lot together in the past 12 years and you've always stuck by me. I remember the first time I saw you squeezed on the back of a rack in Cambridge's Garment District thrift store. I was running my hands across the rack looking for something bright and pink or orange, but your soft velvet burnout caught my attention.

And then there was your neat little 80s-does-40s peplum, and your adorable little front bow. And you know I can't resist a sweetheart neckline...

You were the perfect combination of structure and comfort, with your boned front bodice and your super-stretchy elastic shirred back. Really, you're everything I could want in a dress:

Thanks to that shirred back, you've survived many a closet purge over the years. My weight has gone up and down, but you almost ALWAYS fit.

You make me feel glamorous and put together and thrifty all at once. You've accompanied me to many a dance over the years, and even a Zombie Purim party (sorry about the fake blood, but it washed out):

Plus, even though I got you second-hand you were originally union made in the USA (thanks International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union!)

Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for coming with me to my college reunion last weekend. It was my 33rd birthday and I was grumpy about spending it back at Harvard and I barely saw anyone I knew (that's what I get for taking a semester off and graduating with the class behind me!) and I soon realized why velvet dresses aren't generally worn on 90-degree summer days ... but I had so much fun getting dressed up and dancing with my husband in his rented tuxedo.

Love and kisses,
Mikhaela

P.S. You are so hard to photograph, dear dress—but that's the black velvet I suppose. Here you are in an overexposed shot for more clarity:

--Black velvet strapless sweetheart peplum dress, vintage--
--Fake pearl necklace my mom and I both wore to our weddings--
--Vaneli silver leather strappy sandals, bought for my wedding in 2007 (similar here)--
--Pleated silvery gray clutch, now covered in cranberry juice stains thanks to a drunken reunion attendee (similarish)--

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Me Made May 2013: VICTORY (and Takeaways, Lessons, and/or Morals of the Story)

Click my month of me-mades mosaic to enlarge. By a lot!

Readers, I did it. I started the month with just two skirts, two tops, one dress, one pair of trousers, one cardigan, two pairs of socks and three pairs of panties. And I only initially pledged to wear at least one me-made item four days per week.

Instead I wore something at least one me-made EVERY day for the entire month (sometimes as many as four or five in one day), and made three new tops, one new pair of socks and one "new" (refashioned) cardigan. I even had days when my daughter was also wearing her me-made dresses and sweaters as a bonus.

It was fun and inspiring but exhausting... and by day 31 I could not WAIT to wear some thrifted or vintage clothing as a little break.

Anyway... here I am at in my office on May 31 after the end of the work day, in my victorious final Me Made May outfit for the month:

Me-Mades (just one):
Hummingbird knit top by Cake Patterns with four-leaf clover peplum in polka dot ITY jersey.

Other:

bias striped knit skirt

Wurishofer 711 amazingly comfy leather "granny" sandals, red leather version

red coral necklace bought at Renegade Craft Fair ages ago, can't remember maker

pink cotton cardigan

I also had a little special post MMM day yesterday, actually. I was wearing my chartreuse Georgina cardigan and polka-dot ombré knit surplice dress and I got tons of unsolicited random compliments on both. A woman stopped me on the subway to ask me "Did you make that sweater? I LOVE IT!" and my boss asked me the same thing later.

Best of all, when I got home my toddler jumped up into my arms and squealed "Mommy, you're wearing the pretty green sweater you knit. I LOVE IT!" and kissed my cheek and then the sweater. (Girl really knows how to butter up her Mommy!)

Oh yeah... and a big thank you to Zoe of So Zo for all the inspiration!

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Hummingbird Sewalong: I'm Head of Rufous House! (June 17 - 27)

If you get an orange envelope in the mail, you've been sorted into my House!

It's pretty much no secret that I'm obsessed with the new Cake Patterns Hummingbird Separates—they were my favorite cover illustration to draw so far, and they are even more fun to sew and wear.

I've made the knit peplum top twice already (in B&W polka dot and an eye-searing bright print, and I'm almost done with my first Hummingbird skirt (in dark pinstriped denim with knit striped piping—will photograph this weekend as soon as I hem her up).

Naturally I jumped at the chance to be a Head of House (you get the reference, right? or are the hat and wand too subtle?), and I got Rufous—the orange envelope team.

The Hummingbird Sew-along starts June 17(days 1-5 for the top, days 6-10 for the skirt), and you can get your print or PDF patterns here, join the Flickr group for support and fitting help here, and find all the posts and blog badges here.

Here's a shipping update and more on the other distinguished Heads of House.

Let's get sewing! Are you in? The house with the most official Finished Hummingbird Objects when it's all done gets a lovely prize!

Brooklyn Sewcializing: Sewing Club & Colette Party!

Brooklyn Sewing Club May 26 meet-up (L to R): Lee with Cabarita, Clio with hippo dragon friend, me and my Hummingbirds, Valerie in a Lisette skirt, Cindy and her watermelon socks, Nettie and her Tiny Pocket Tank/Meringue mashup, Liz w/ a Simplicity mock-wrap dress

Even in the darkest depths of my no-sewing-possible illness and fatigue, I tried whenever I wasn't super ill to make it to the monthly Brooklyn Sewing Club. Even when I had nothing to show during our latest projects go-round, I think it helped keep me grounded and hopeful and inspired.

But this time was WAY more fun because I actually had several finished objects to show off!

We had a little potluck feast... mostly cookies, fruit and tortilla chips. You know. Dinner. (Everyone was so awesome and carefully avoided bringing nut or sesame-containing products that would be dangerous for my daughter, and many people even brought specially allergy-safe items so she could eat them too!):

(That's little Z in the foreground eating a strawberry).

We did our usual go-round, shared our latest sewing and knitting projects and plans for upcoming makes. We also discussed sewing and fitting challenges, and I think next time we might do a more fitting-oriented session (it can be SO hard to fit yourself, especially in the back... I cannot count the number of times I have stuck myself with pins as a result).

Then there was a dive for the fabric and pattern swap piles—we hadn't done either in a while:

I think I gave away two pieces of fabric and four or five patterns, and I took home two of each. How fabulous is this Simplicity 1653 mock-wrap dress with flutter sleeves? And that blue and purple print knit p is just right for it, too!

The Butterick B5749 is also really cute but I've seen reviewers complain it is complicated to make and there are errors in the instructions. (But isn't this version by Rachel at Prismatoria AWESOME?)

Cocktails with Colette!

Also, a few weeks earlier, some members of the club went to the Colette Patterns cocktail party at Brooklyn General. Sadly I had no actual Colette to wear, but it was fun to see most everyone out and about in their best Macarons and Gingers and Laurels.

Here's Sarai in a lovely eyelet dress (and two fabulous women whose names I didn't catch):

Brooklyn Sewing Club members, including yours truly:

Oh look, it's Bright as a Button and GingerMakes:

Anyway, a lovely time was had by all, and the drinks were nearly as fancy as the pretty dresses!

And I'm actually not sew sure if I like the word "sewcial" or not, but I think I just need to give up being sew picky and embrace all the "sew" puns already. Ahem.

P.S. Speaking of sewcializing, I believe there's some big NYC meetup happening Saturday at Prospect Park in Brooklyn... but I'm going to be in Massachusetts celebrating my 33rd birthday and attending my 10th Harvard Reunion (in a $4 vintage strapless black velvet peplum dress, if you must know).

Brights and Prints Overload (Me Made May Week 4)

I may be a week behind in getting up these blog posts, I may be tired, my photos may be degenerating and me-made-May posts may be the least commented on of all posts on this blog ... but I am NOT giving up on this challenge. SO THERE.

Day 20: Bright Green and Blue Day

Me-Mades (just one):
1. Jalie 2921 scarf-collar floral poly knit top

Other:
1. Thrifted J. Crew green cotton lawn polka-dot skirt (similarish style here)
2. Wurishofer 711 ridiculously comfortable granny sandals, black leather version

Day 21: A Little Sparkle

Who says sequins aren't daytime/work appropriate?

Me-Mades (just one):
1. Cake Patterns Tiramisu knit dress, adapted into a top

Other:
1. Sequined inset lined gored blue skirt
2. Turquoise necklace made by a dear friend
3. Some old Clarks leather sandals, super comfy (similaresque)

Day 22: A Peplum & a Circle Skirt

Here's my black & white polka dot Hummingbird peplum top again, this time with a big blue circle skirt (not me-made). I typically think of peplum tops as only going with pencil skirts and skinny jeans, but I see a lot of peplums and circle skirts in photos from the 50s, so trying a new silhouette! Think the skirt is maybe a bit long, though...

Me-Mades (two):
1. Hummingbird knit top by Cake Patterns with four-leaf clover peplum in polka dot ITY jersey.
2. TARDIS socks in blue, black and white merino wool (held in hands, near completion).

Other:
1. American Apparel blue circle skirt, awkward midi length — originally bought for TARDIS Halloween costume that never came to fruition
2. red coral necklace bought at Renegade Craft Fair ages ago, can't remember maker
3. The Sak orange leather handbag (the only handbag I own, so I wear it regardless of outfit color.)
4. Wurishofer 711 comfy granny sandals, red leather version

Day 23: Green and Purple Love

This is a bit of a cheat—I was sick most of the day, ended up working from home and didn't get dressed until 5:30 p.m. when I had to get my daughter from preschool. Those are my fabric and yarn drawers behind me—all six of them.

Me-Mades (two):
1. Self-drafted reversible shirred skirt.
2. Striped undies, not visible.

Other:
1. Surplice green and white printed knit top.
2. Turquoise necklace made by a dear friend.
3. Clarks Privo black leather Mary Jane flats scuffed to shreds over past 6 years but still going. (Super similar here).

Day 24: Scarves Upon Scarves

This colorblocked second-hand cardigan is actually really awesome, and in real life without a bad flash photo the flower rosette thingies do NOT look like pasties. Just saying. But I don't know if this silhouette really works for me.

Me-Mades (two):
1. Jalie Scarf-Collar top in red and cream polka dot knit
2. Monkey socks in kettle-dyed merino wool

Other:
1. Second-hand purple colorblocked cardigan from friend who was cleaning out closet
2. Pink silk rib knit lace-edge cami
3. Not Your Daughter's straight-legged black stretch jeans (Marilyn style)
4. Arcopedico Flower black leather Mary Jane cut-out flats

Day 25: TARDIS socks for a journey to the stars

Finished my TARDIS sock disaster just in time for a family outing to the American Museum of Natural History's Hayden Planetarium, where we saw "Journey to the Stars." (Toddler was scared sometimes but overall loved it and can't stop talking about how "stars are big hot balls of fire—don't touch!")

Me-Mades (3):
1. Georgina cardigan by Alexis Winslow in chartreuse hand-dyed Swans Island merino wool
2. Falling-down TARDIS socks.
3. striped underthings (not visible)

Other:
1. Not Your Daughter's straight-legged dark blue stretch jeans (Marilyn style)
2. Arcopedico Flower black leather Mary Jane cut-out flats

SO TIRED. But MUST GO ON!

Who else is still hanging in there for the challenge?

Hummingbird Peplum Top II: Hummingbird Colors

A new Hummingbird joins the flock!

So the moment I saw this hummingbird-colored fabric, I just knew it had to be my second Hummingbird peplum top, to follow my first black & white version.

In fact, most of the time involved for this super-quick sewing project was in the cutting—I had to work REALLY carefully to make sure that none of the little round flower things ended up over either "bust apex."

The pattern: Cake Patterns Hummingbird Peplum Top and Straight Skirt 0289. (Hummingbird is shipping now in paper, by the way, or you can buy the top-only PDF for instant peplum gratification).

Fabric: Soft, stretchy and super light-weight rayon/spandex blend jersey from Mood. (I bought extra because I knew the large-scale print would be a challenge.) It doesn't have quite as crisp of a drape as my previous fabric, so the four-leaf clover effect is a bit lost.

It does catch the wind nicely, though:

Also, this fabric is so bright, it is scientifically impossible to be unhappy while wrapped in it.

Differences from version 1:

• I used the second sized peplum length to make it a more comfortable top over jeans or any bottoms that don't sit at the natural waist. I like both lengths on me, however.
• Since this fabric is so light and fluttery, I finished the sleeves with a magenta rolled hem edge on my serger for variation.
• I shortened the back by a little over an inch around bust level (because the top length is sized by front waist length, you may need to do this if you are quite full-busted).

I love many things about this top, but I am most proud of the...

SMOOTH.

FLAT.

NECKBAND.

I don't think I've ever really managed this before. The key was to stretch the band quite a bit tauter over the most curved areas, and just moderately over the straighter areas (Threads has a fantastic video on this from Sarah Veblen, and this one is pretty great too). The topstitching Steph recommends in the instructions helps a lot as well—I did mine in pink.

I'm also pleased with myself for once again getting out of the apartment for a photoshoot—this time the courtyard of my apartment building. (I did worry that the neighbors were wondering what I was doing out there by myself with a tripod twirling around, but oh well.) No idea what those chalked numbers are there for.

Honestly, I feel like this neckband trick is life-changing. I have never really gotten any knit neck bindings to properly cooperate before—they tend to ripple and sag and wibble and wobble all over the place, which is one of the reasons I have made the Jalie scarf-collar top twice—no binding necessary.

In fact, I went to see the Star Trek movie with my husband last night and had trouble concentrating on the film because I kept touching my neckband to see if it was still lying flat and crisp—which it was.

What's your favorite tip for taming knits?

P.S. Full disclosure again, in case you've missed the million times I've mentioned it: I'm the envelope illustrator for Cake but I am NOT paid to sew or blog about Cake!

TARDIS sock disaster + swatching my Delancey cardigan

It seems the Doctor and his TARDIS have landed on a planet populated by gigantic adorable toddlers...

Yeah, so, if you've watched any Doctor Who at all (latest episodes available on iTunes if you don't get BBC America), you know that the Doctor's time-traveling spaceship—aka the TARDIS for Time and Relative Dimension in Space—has a curious feature. On the outside it appears to be a small blue wooden British police call box...

But it's MUCH, MUCH bigger on the inside:

Which brings me to my TARDIS socks (full details here, including some mods I made), which, unfortunately are bigger on the OUTSIDE. See how they slouch and bag around the ankles?

They fit fine while I was knitting them (just the right amount of negative ease), but after I gave them a gentle bath, they started to grow...

And now they look good for a second when I tug them up...

But quickly slouch back into saggy baggy land within moments:

I really don't know what's going on here. I used a non-superwash 100% merino wool yarn, and knit them on the smallest sock needles I have (size 0). I've never had baggy socks before but they always had a bit of nylon in them, so maybe it's because these socks have no nylon content?

Anyway, all hope is not lost for my Time and Relative Dimension in Socks—the excellent Tech Knitting blog recommends a fix using elastic thread or an elastic garter at the top of the sock, so we'll see how that does!

Meanwhile, I swatched for my Delancey cardigan by Alexis Winslow. Here's the sketch (on bottom right) as you may remember from my Sweater Showdown decision post:

And here's my gauge swatch:

I'm using stash yarn, so my color scheme is based on what I have available. The main color is going to be the eggplant, and the sets of triple stripes will be in the gray, periwinkle and light purple. The aqua will be for the shawl collar and sleeve cuffs.

I'm going to knit a 33" bust size (even though my bust is 38.5") as I'm not getting exact gauge. I'm hoping it'll come out around 35", giving me 3.5" negative ease. I'd much rather it be a bit on the tight side than loose and slouchy (see my Not-Goldilocks and the Three Sweaters fitting post for more on this).